Interview: JOAEN Label
Recently I sat down with Australian designer Grace Kelly to speak about all things fashion and design, and accompanying this article are some images that we made together in Yatoma Studio. Special thanks to dancer Shené Lazarus for bringing dynamic movement to my work, and of course Grace for styling with new and old pieces from her wardrobe.
First of all hello Grace, and congratulations on your very recent launch of your fashion label Joaen.
Thank you so much. It has been a long journey to get here, but I am so excited to finally share the brand with everyone and to give an insight into what we are all about.
Would you mind telling me a little bit about how Joaen came to be?
JOAEN for me has been one of those growing ideas and dreams that I have had for a very long time. Although we officially were established at the beginning of 2021 and launched towards the end of 2022, these checkpoints came about by ‘right place and right timing’. Joaen was always in the plans, but it does seem crazy that it is finally live.
After graduating at the close of 2020, the world as we all know, was very much in a state of uncertainty. And to say the least, the fashion industry before then was already very cut-throat and challenging to break into. So entering it as a fresh graduate when it was somewhat in turmoil, well it was and continues to still be, very difficult. However in saying this, a lot of positive action has come out of this period for the industry. It’s exciting to see how brands shifted and re-approached their work.
So yep, a lot of people said I was crazy to launch a fashion label at this time. Some tried to convince me to steer away from the industry until at least the world settled. But here we are.
So at a time of uncertainty, I drew upon my knowledge in slowness and intentionality. I practised what I knew best - stopping, questioning and designing with purpose for longevity.
The name of JOAEN (pronounced ‘Joan’), is a testament to the generations of makers and women in my family. The name was formed by merging the name of my grandmother, Joan, and great-grandmother, Jean. JOAEN is a merging of generations, and celebration of 'timeless' and 'intergenerational' qualities. Naming the business after these women was an easy decision for me as they remain as true inspiration for who we are, what we do and the women we design for. They were ahead of their time and this is just so amazing to me. Their lives were simple, minimalist, artisanal and humbling. Their true being ultimately defines the foundational values and qualities that are held within all JOAEN women.
How have your physical designs changed/adapted since your first collection to now?
Since my first collection, I believe the roots are still the same. I’ve always designed for the timeless, drawn on inspiration from weird and wonderful things, looked at interesting people, books and imagery, and ALWAYS designed with purpose for a better world. I don't do trends and I will look outside of the fashion world for muses, sparks of inspiration and purpose.
I do believe that my designs have matured and become more confident or I guess powerful in a way. My knitting skills have gotten more experimental and limitless, which I think people love to see and interact with. Knitting is one of those things I fell in love with because it was so untouched and fluid for possibilities, and during the last few years since I have shared my knitting journey, engagement has flown through the roof. I believe people - even those who aren't in the fashion world - connect with its elegance, intriguing unknown qualities, and malleability to any shape and movement. So for me, my designs have shifted towards this being my specialty or “point of difference” I guess you could say. But designing tailored woven pieces will always remain part of JOAEN. I see the two specialties as my yin and yang - soft fluidity with some structure, and structure with subtle softness.
Your first collection for Joaen appears to be very dynamic. With the wearer in mind, where do you hope to see your pieces, which seem to be appropriate for a wide variety of occasions.
You’re exactly right. JOAEN aims to be transeasonal and inclusive. There are no limits to how or where you wear your pieces. Our core values are underpinned by creating quality and timeless pieces, for women that celebrate true craftsmanship and design. Our designs are developed not just for a season or a trend, but for years to come and the evolving development of our wardrobes.
Growing up I loved shopping with my mum, but ultimately we are different in size, age, lifestyles and incomes. The pieces or brands we would both love were those that would cater to us both. Either we would both walk away from the one shop with something for ourselves, or we would come away with something to share. And that for me is what I wanted to create in JOAEN - accessibility, relatability and longevity.
I want to see JOAEN hit the global market. Australian fashion has a lot to offer, and I think we are just starting to see it creep into the international scene. …so fingers crossed, watch this space.
My first encounter with your design work was whilst you were working on your graduate design collections (Of which most of what our talented Ballerina Shené is wearing in these images) I am particularly intrigued by how well these pieces intertwine and flow with movement. In this shoot I would even say they look like complimentary extensions of Shené’s movements. When you were knitting these pieces did you have any particular form in mind?
I never really had anyone in mind when I was creating my graduate collection. It was very much an artistic expression of my practice and design values. After this collection I think it was when my designs really matured. I had pushed my capabilities to the nth degree and wanted to see how they would interact with the human form. It was kind of when I began to design quite openly, and allowed the design and the wearer to create their own connection. This approach I continue to embody in my JOAEN work.
Dressing Shené in my pieces was super exciting because I had never thought to have a dancer wear them. Shené, along with many people in the past, ask “how do I wear this” or “what do you want me to do”, but I always respond with “you just do you”. And they always are like “ahhhhh”, but eventually they connect and take the design to a place I never would have envisioned. And this for me, is when I have done my job as the designer.
I think these images really capture the connection of Shené with the knitwear and suiting from myself, and you get this sense that it is just like a second skin. That is what I want to achieve - whether it be ready-to-wear or bespoke haute couture. I look at fashion as not something the person wears or that wears the person, it has always been this simultaneous relationship - the second skin.
Roughly how long does it take to create one of these handmade pieces?
Definitely a case of ‘how long is a piece of string’? Could be 2 hours, could be 2 months. It’s become this natural instinct I have where I just know when it’s done. I never go into making something with a perfect plan or pattern. I just kind of sit and make, and see where the knit takes me.
I’ve played piano since I was 5 years old, and the closest thing I can relate it to is the piano. It’s a feeling and you just let it evolve.
Can you see a Joaen knit collection in the future of the label?
Oh 100%. Like I said, it has become my point of difference I think. Knitwear is just so cool and so untouched, that the possibilities are endless.
I have plans to integrate knitwear into JOAEN in many ways that will cater to all of our audience…but that is all to come very soon! So for now, I have my basics range you can shop online which were made by our beautiful manufactures in Hong Kong, KNITUP. They are so luxe and comfortable. I literally live in them!
Out of the first drop, what are your favourite pieces and why?
That is honestly such a tough one. I love them all!
After saying all of these things about slowness and purpose, I literally get sick of things SO easily and will change my mind on things in a split second. I think that is the millennial in me. So I guess for me, I know the design is ready for production when I am not sick of them, and love them as much in person as I did when I designed them. I can honestly say this about every piece in Wardrobe One.
I live in my Eula legging and bikeshort literally everyday of the week. They are so easy to wear and dress up or down. The silk sets I have worn SO many times and all to different occasions - so versatile and so luxe.
And for me, it’s suit season all year round…even in Queensland. I always have a blazer on me, and lately yes, it has been the Alora blazer.
Last question is nice, light & fluffy for you before I let you go! What directed your interest towards fashion and design? I already know you have an immensely supportive family (cheers Dad who did a lot of running around on your collection shoot day) And can you think of a moment in your life where things began to click in a particular direction?
Fashion in my eyes for a long long time was just a hobby. Never something I saw to be my career. I always saw it as a cut-throat and unpredictable industry (which it definitely is). My grandmother was in the industry her whole life, and my mother saw what struggles her mum went through - emotionally, physically and financially. Although mum never said no to me and both of my parents always encouraged us kids to chase our dreams, I think I just never saw fashion as an option to chase.
In saying this, I loved design. Putting on my practical thinking, I thought, ‘ok I love design and engineering, the obvious choice is Architecture’. So I enrolled, started, did 6 weeks, then deferred. I took a gap year (which I never thought to do) and worked full-time in hospitality.
It was the middle of 2016 that I was making this outfit for fun, and I showed it to my work friend who looked at me and said, “Grace, what are you doing?”
I was like, “making a dress…”
He said, “yes but what are you doing with your life?”
At this point I could have cried because I honestly was so lost in everything I was doing.
Then he went on to say, “why aren’t you doing fashion?”
It honestly was like this glass shattering moment. Like this obvious thing had been staring at me in the face but I couldn’t see it before this point.
So long story short, I went home, slapped together a portfolio, enrolled that evening, got accepted a week later and never looked back.
Mum and Dad looked at me when I submitted my portfolio and were like, “finally!”
I remember being so frustrated with them for not telling me that this was what they thought I needed to do with my life. I even said, “mum you always said it’s so hard and that it killed grandma!”
To which she said, “I never said for you not to do it. I told you how hard it can and will be. I knew that when the day came that you passionately knew that fashion was what you needed and wanted to pursue, that it was because you were ready and had the drive within you to face whatever the industry threw at you.”
So yes, a light bulb moment mixed with the MOST supportive parents you could ever imagine…and here we are.
Check out JOAEN, and shop for yourself Here!